Pony的甜點窗(二)布列塔尼蛋黃餅

這個餅干的做法很容易,姐姐跟我曾經在媽媽店裡賣過。記得有一次我們接到一個從台北來的大訂單,那天我們倆起個大早,因為前一晚已經精密計算過烘烤與冷卻的時間。我們為這個遠來的客人而感到興奮,雖然賺到的錢只足夠支付材料和包裝費,但是,那個早上姐姐跟我在一盤又一盤的蛋黃麵球中振奮地工作。 

這種餅乾起源於不列塔尼──法國西北岸的一個省份,她曾經是一個獨立的王國。布列塔尼因為維繫自己獨特的傳統,所以跟法國其實有很大的不同。這個美麗的半島不只是歷史的寶藏也是飲食的天堂。可麗餅就是來自此地,它曾是窮人用以替代麵包的食物。雖然有很多非嚐試不可的美食,但你一定不能錯過奶油和海鮮。我從一本書中找到關於不列塔尼奶油的描寫:〈這本書是1996Kate Whiteman所寫的Brittany Gastronomique

Pies noires是一種迷人、黑白相間的乳牛,長著尖尖的角,非常頑皮;牠產的乳非常濃而牠的肉也很好吃。通常牠的產乳量只有Holstein牛種的一半。對遊客來說pie noire奶油是一大特色,曾經有個叫Fernand Point的廚師講了一句標語說:「奶油,更多的奶油,永遠都是奶油。」而布列塔尼的居民則熱情地支持這個論調。他們絕對有個好理由這樣熱愛奶油,因為那亮麗鮮黃的油與水晶般晶瑩的海鹽配在一起真是可口。布列塔尼的廚師總是使用加了鹽的奶油,即使焙製糕點也不例外,所以他們的糕餅非常獨特美味。 

雖然之前我們拿到的配方都是用無鹽奶油,但我們這次做餅干時用的是加了鹽的奶油。如果你選擇要用加鹽奶油,請記得減少糖的量,因為鹽會過度強調糖的甜味。我們的安佳奶油中的鹽並沒有帶出任何布列塔尼效應,但如果你加了海鹽也許會比較接近那種風味。 

 我烤第二爐餅干的時候把麵團薄鋪在烤盤上,它變得比較像英國式的午茶糕點;這兩個烤法對這個配方來說都合適。

         Here is one of my favorite fool proof recipes that my sister and I used to make and sell at my mother’s restaurant. I remember once when we received a large order from Taipei , Abby and I woke up especially early because we had carefully calculated the active, baking, and cooling time the night before. We were so delighted by this faraway customer, and though the money we made was hardly enough to cover our material and packaging costs, we diligently spent the entire morning sending in trays after trays of varnished dough balls.

This recipe originated in Brittany, a historical province located on France ’s northwest coast. Formerly an independent kingdom and duchy, Brittany continues to preserve her national heritage (patrimoine) that sets her apart from the rest of  France. Not only is the beautiful peninsula a historical asset but presently, a gastronomical paradise as well. Crepes, for example, came from Brittany and were once poor man’s substitute for bread. Now, among the many must-haves in Brittany, two of the most important are seafood and butter. Below is a short excerpt from Kate Whiteman’s “Brittany Gastronomique” that describes the distinctive Breton butter:

 “Pies noires are small, attractive black-and-white cows with pointed horns and a mischievous nature. Their milk is rich and their meat good…A pie noire will yield only half as much milk per year as a large Holstein (note: the typical dairy cow)… Butter such as that from pie noire milk, is one of the highlights of a visit to Brittany. ‘Du beurre, encore du beurre et toujours du beurre’ (butter, more butter, always butter) was the motto of the great gargantuan chef Fernand Point…Bretons adhere enthusiastically to his precepts, and with good reason; bright yellow and glistening with crystalline flakes of Guerande salt, Breton butter is indescribably delicious. Breton cooks invariably use salted butter, even for patisserie, giving their biscuits and cakes a unique and heavenly flavor.”

         We did use salted butter, even though the recipe called for unsalted. If you choose to use salted butter, be sure to decrease the sugar because the salt will overemphasize the sweetness. Our Anchor Salted produced no special Breton effects, but sea salt might bring you a notch closer. For my second batch, I spread the dough thinly in an aluminum pan, and it turned out more shortbread than cookie; the recipe goes well either way.

材料:

蛋黃六個
低筋麵粉  275公克
細白糖   175公克
奶油   200公克

作法:

把蛋黃蛋白分開,秤好你所需要的糖與麵粉,奶油在室溫中柔化

在大碗中混合所有的材料

手上塗抹一些乾麵粉,輕輕滾圓麵糰

開始用180度預熱烤盤

以下火烤12到15分鐘

從烤箱拿出塗上蛋黃與牛奶的調汁〈一個蛋黃和5cc的牛奶〉再用上火著色